In Seasoning: Asparagus
Asparagus, Hot-Smoked Trout and Pea Shoot Tart recipe - and why fridge cold quiche is clearly a crime
In my springtime kitchen – and hopefully yours – it sometimes feels like every day is an asparagus day. That’s no bad thing when there are so many ways to have it, and the season so short. In its peak of season, asparagus has unique delicacy and complexity of !avour. Add in the sunshine, longer days and warmer evenings that asparagus usually heralds and the annual furore at its arrival makes a lot of sense.
From: Seasoning - How To Cook and Celebrate the Seasons / Spring / Asparagus
I go on to talk about how asparagus is to be revelled in for just as long - and no longer - as it is truly in season; the pressure put on farmers to extend the season; the differences between green, purple and white varieties and more. Then come the tips and ideas for ‘How to Use’ / ‘Flavour Partners’ / ‘Preserve’. And then come the asparagus recipes, including one I particularly love for Asparagus, Hot-Smoked Trout and Pea Shoot Tart and which cropped up a lot in the conversation I had with this weekend’s Guardian ‘Feast’ section about all things quiche and tart related.
In honour of that and because we are now deep, deep into true asparagus season I thought I’d gift subscribers the recipe from the book. Noting additionally that although I say in the recipe that the tart is nearly as good at room temperature as fresh from the oven, I also caution Guardian readers that “Fridge-cold quiche is clearly a crime”. Make it ahead by all means, keep it in the fridge for sure, then just give it a quick perk-up in a warm oven to bring the flavours back to life and de-rubberise the filling.
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