In Seasoning: Pumpkins and Other Winter Squash

Roasted pumpkin, spinach and carlin pea curry - the recipe we couldn't fit in

Bring any squash into your kitchen and in the balancing act of flavour you already have sweetness taken care of. Now it’s all about the other elements.

Spices will work so well with that sweetness. Spoonfuls of harissa over roasted squash. Wedges tossed in garam masala or dukkah before they go into the oven. Cooking peeled and cubed squash in a dal or curry that is laden with any of the curry spices. Cinnamon and nutmeg tread a delicate path of bringing squash yet another edge of sweetness, but can absolutely work as long you add some bitter/acidic liveliness too…

From: Seasoning - How To Cook and Celebrate the Seasons / Autumn / Pumpkins and other winter squash

The winter squashes are upon us. How heavenly. One of the prettiest sights at this time of year must be the piles of pumpkins outside a grocer’s. All their different sizes and shapes and gnarliness competing for our attention.

This was one of my very favourite sections to write for Seasoning and, as ever, we had more recipes for the section than we could actually fit in. So this week’s paid subscriber feature is the the pumpkin recipe that got away: Roasted pumpkin, spinach and carlin pea curry

It is warming, hearty and a total favourite of mine. In that extract above from Seasoning I talk about balancing sweet and spice flavours for squashes and this recipe leans deeply into that with garam masala, turmeric, mixed spice and black mustard seeds.

A side note on carlin peas: You might see carlin peas also called black badgers. This small, nutty pulse is perfect for this dish and will do you proud in lots of other recipes where you might use chickpeas. I am using dried ones here (get them at Hodemdods or Holland & Barrett). The Bold Bean Co do pre-cooked and jarred ones.

A side note on leaves: This recipe says spinach and that is indeed fab but if you have any beetroot leaves around they will be just as great (or perhaps even more so) to use instead.

Georgina Luck’s squash illustration to accompany the feature in Seasoning

Roasted pumpkin, spinach and carlin pea curry

Serves 4 - 6

You don’t need me to tell you some kind of soft bread like a naan would be wonderful here alongside. And / or a big bowl of rice. Perhaps also some natural yoghurt stirred through with chopped mint, salt and a good squeeze of lemon or lime juice.